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Deux-Sèvres in Poitou-Charentes

Niort was once a medieval port; today it is a large town of light industry. Long ago, on the estuary of the Sèvre niortaise, lay the golfe des Pictons, a bay that was gradually filled in from the 10th century to become the Marais poitevin. To the north and south of the estuary is the fertile marais désséché; the marais mouillé lies upstream towards Niort. Also known as la Venise verte (Green Venice), it is an outstanding nature reserve, today ideal for leisurely outings by punt. As you glide along over the water on a green carpet of duckweed, you may see a kingfisher, swans, a water vole or two. Coulon is the ideal centre for exploring this watery labyrinth; it offers guided boat trips, an aquarium and some good restaurants, where you are likely to find the local speciality, eel, on the menu. Angelica is also quite common on the banks of the canals. And don't be put off by the burnt appearance of the tourteau fromagé, the speciality of Deux-Sèvres: this moist cake, made from cheese, eggs and sugar, is absolutely delicious.

MaraisPoitevin - CRT Poitou-Charentes


Like much of western France, the département of Deux-Sèvres is well known for its Romanesque churches. They are all intricately carved and of a pale cream or even white colour, and are resplendent in the sunshine. Some further points of interest in the Deux-Sévres are the underground pigeon-loft in Tourtenay, the crypt at Champdeniers, the abbey of Airvault, the lanternes des morts (monuments to the dead), the neolithic tumulus at Bougon, and the many châteaux: east of Thouars, near the border between Anjou and Poitou, the 16th-century château d'Oiron is a particularly fine example of Renaissance architecture, and served as inspiration for Perrault, the author of Puss in Boots.

One of the old pilgrim roads passes through the département of Deux-Sèvres, from the abbey of Fontevraud (just outside Deux-Sèvres) to Thouars, along the valley of the Thouet and onwards to Parthenay and Melle. The medieval city of Parthenay has three kilometres of ramparts and 30 towers, fabled to have been constructed overnight by the fairy Mélusine (her works are seemingly omnipresent in this region). The town was said to be untakeable in the 13th century, and today it is home to France's second largest livestock market on Wednesday mornings. The steep, cobbled rue de la Vau-St-Jacques is a delight, with its corbelled medieval houses. Melle used to be the site of a Roman silver mine, and in the 9th century had the only mint in Aquitaine. It is today best known for its Romanesque churches, particularly that of St-Hilaire, which features an equestrian statue of the Emperor Constantine.

Parthenay - CRT Poitou-Charentes

 

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