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Moselle in Lorraine

Although not as famous as Nancy, Metz, standing on a hill above the Moselle Valley, has some of the most beautiful architecture in France, and well deserves to be visited. It is particularly noted for its cathedral, with extensive stained glass, including work by Chagall. Other sites include the 4th-century St-Pierre-aux-Nonnains, amongst the oldest Christian edifices in France, and the église St-Maximin, whose stained glass windows were designed by Jean Cocteau in the 1960s. The musée de la Cour d'Or has beautiful examples of ceramics.

 

The city was an important Gallo-Roman site (larger in its day than Paris), and there are many Roman remains, including an aqueduct and thermal baths. It was the capital of the Dagobert's kingdom of Austrasie. Lorraine fell under the control of the French in the 17th century. Metz (in French pronounced mess) is not only the cultural, commercial and administrative focus of Lorraine; it is also a major manufacturing city in its own right. It was besieged by the Prussians for two months in 1870, and subsequently annexed with the rest of Lorraine until WWI.

Sarreguemines was the doyen of faience during the 19th century. The town's municipal museum examines the riches and the diversity of the industry, which has now disappeared (except for the manufacture of ceramic tiles). There is an abundance of tableware, vases, mantels and original frescoes, such as Le Boulevard.

The parc régional de Lorraine contains countless lakes and watercourses; water sports and le tourisme vert are popular here.

There are several Maginot Line forts, including Hackenberg, the largest on the line and now a fascinating (if humbling) museum that impresses all who visit. Hackenburg remained uncaptured until the French armistice with the Nazis in 1940.

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